Just when I thought Europe couldn't get any better, I stumble upon Budapest.
(Pronounced Buda-pesht by the locals)
Home of the Rubix cube and the ball point pen, this city had me at "szia".
Autumn colours paint the street, leaves fall to the ground ready to be stepped on to create a satisfying crunch. Having no direction, no time limit, no place to be, the city is ready to be lost in by those game enough to step off the beaten track. The air is crisp as a warning of the coming winter, but the sun still shines brightly onto my face. Untainted by the need to please tourists passing through, the city is genuinely calming and peaceful.
Imagination and creativity is seeping from every crevice, waiting to be discovered and enjoyed. Live music can be heard every night, from folk music in a stone walled pub to easy jazz in an club with a ceiling opened up to the starry night sky. To help keep warm through the long nights many delicious beers and local spirits quench my thirst. The abundance of friendliness is comforting and I never drink alone.
Through stained glass doors, down the dark stoned staircase I follow the smell of roasted meats. Here we discover a medieval dungeon restaraunt with belly dancers and fire twilers for entertainment while we await our meal. A tray is delivered to our table with three ceramic jugs overflowing with beer. Then placed directly in front of us is a feast fit for a king: fried pork knuckle, leg of turkey, a mountain of vegetables consisting of carrots, corn, egg plant and zucchini. After the meal is devoured we venture to a near by local pub and watch a folk band playing violins, cellos and the double bass while couples dance close as if no one was watching.
To absorb the remaining alcohol from the night before, for breakfast I try some tradtional Hungarian food- deep fried dough smothered in garlic paste, sour cream and topped with a mass of grated cheddar. My taste buds are delighted by the flavours and this meal soon becomes a favourite of the entire trip. After wandering the streets, soaking up the atmosphere and admiring many beautiful buildings and shop fronts we are in desperate need for a break. The menu chosen is omlette with pesto and a side of fresh salad, then to top it off- pancakes filled with cottage cheese, rolled in icing sugar with frozen berries and vanilla bean icecream on the side.
Halfway through my stay here, I find myself a lone traveller. My companion heads off to the land of the Brits and I stand on the street watching the tail lights of her taxi disappear into the distance.
When my visit is drawing to a close, my energy is finally drained and a day of relaxation is required. Turkish styled baths are a great place to forget about all your troubles and melt into the earth for a few hours. Steam rises off the thermal heated water and for a time the cold air is forgotten. Making a quick run for the sauna we are shocked by the heat that hits us with such force. Eyeballs almost melt in the close to 100 degrees Celsius room, and we can't stay for long. At the end of the day my energy has reignited it's flame and I find myself eager to hit the road once more.
"What is the feeling when you're driving away from people and they recede on the plain until you see their specks dispersing?
It's the too huge world vaulting us,
And it's goodbye.
But we lean forward to the next crazy adventures beneath the skies..."
- Jack Kerouac
